Practical plumbing advice from experienced plumbers serving Essex and Southend-on-Sea.

A dripping tap is one of those household problems that is easy to ignore. It is just a small drip, after all. The trouble is that a dripping tap wastes far more water than most people realise, can cause damage to the sink and surrounding surfaces over time, and is almost always a sign that something inside the tap needs attention.

The good news is that many tap faults are well within the capabilities of a confident DIYer to fix without calling a plumber. In this guide we walk you through the most common tap problems, how to diagnose them, and a clear step by step process for carrying out a repair. We also explain the situations where a plumber is genuinely the right call, so you can make an informed decision rather than guessing.

Is It Worth Fixing a Dripping Tap?

Before getting into the how, it is worth answering the why. Some homeowners wonder whether a dripping tap is really worth the effort of fixing, particularly if the drip seems minor.

The answer is yes, and here is why. A tap dripping once per second wastes approximately 15 litres of water per day, which adds up to over 5,000 litres a year. If that water is hot, your boiler is also working to heat water that is disappearing straight down the drain. The cumulative effect on your water and energy bills is more significant than most people expect.

Beyond the cost, a persistent drip can stain sinks and baths, cause limescale build-up around the outlet, and in some cases lead to water damage around the base of taps if water is running down surfaces rather than directly into the drain.

Fixing a dripping tap promptly is almost always the right decision, both financially and practically.

Understanding Your Tap Type

Not all taps work the same way, and the repair method varies significantly depending on the type of tap you have. Before you start, it is worth identifying which type is fitted in your kitchen or bathroom.

If you are not sure which type you have, the easiest way to tell is by how the handle moves. A tap that turns through multiple rotations is almost certainly a traditional pillar tap with a rubber washer. A tap that turns only a quarter turn is ceramic disc. A single lever that moves up and down or side to side is a monobloc mixer.

Before You Start: What You Will Need

Having everything to hand before you begin makes the whole process significantly smoother. There is nothing more frustrating than getting halfway through a tap repair with the water isolated and realising you do not have the right size Allen key.

• Flathead screwdriver
• Allen key set
• Adjustable spanner
• Replacement cartridge or washer
• Cloth or towel
• Sink plug to catch small parts
• PTFE tape
• White vinegar for limescale

One extra tip before you begin: take a photo of the tap and any visible brand markings on the body before you start disassembly. This can help you identify the manufacturer if you need to source a specific replacement cartridge and the markings become harder to read once the tap is apart.

Step by Step: How to Fix a Faulty Tap

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

Locate the isolation valves underneath the sink. These are usually small chrome or plastic valves on the hot and cold feed pipes, turned a quarter turn with a flathead screwdriver to shut off. If your property does not have isolation valves fitted under the sink, you will need to turn off the main water supply at the stopcock instead, usually found under the kitchen sink or where the mains supply enters the property.

Step 2: Drain the Tap and Block the Plughole

With the water off, turn the tap handle to release any remaining pressure and let the last of the water drain out. Before you go any further, put the sink plug in. Tap internals contain small screws, washers and O-rings that are surprisingly easy to drop, and losing one down the drain turns a simple job into a much more complicated one.

Step 3: Remove the Indicator Cap

Most modern tap handles have a small coloured cap on top marking hot or cold. This usually pops off with a flathead screwdriver or the edge of a utility knife, revealing the grub screw underneath. Be gentle as these caps can crack if forced.

Step 4: Remove the Handle

Using the correct size Allen key, loosen the grub screw a few turns. You do not usually need to remove it completely. Once loose, the handle should lift straight off. If it feels stuck, a gentle wiggle while pulling upward is usually enough. Avoid using excessive force as you risk cracking or damaging the handle.

Step 5: Remove the Shroud

Beneath the handle sits a decorative metal cover called the shroud, which conceals the cartridge or valve mechanism. This typically unscrews by hand or with light help from an adjustable spanner. Wrap the spanner jaws in a cloth before gripping the shroud to protect the chrome finish from scratches.

Step 6: Remove and Replace the Cartridge or Valve

With the shroud off you will see the nut holding the cartridge or valve in place. Grip it firmly with your adjustable spanner and turn anti-clockwise to remove it.

Take the old cartridge to a plumbing merchant or hardware store such as Screwfix, B&Q or a local trade counter to match an exact replacement. Cartridge sizes and thread patterns vary considerably between manufacturers and even between different ranges from the same brand, so buying on sight rather than description is always the safer approach.

Step 7: Reassemble the Tap

Fit the new cartridge into the tap body and tighten clockwise by hand first, before giving it a final gentle snug with the spanner. Do not overtighten, particularly with ceramic disc taps, as excessive force can crack the ceramic components. Screw the shroud back into place, refit the handle and tighten the grub screw, then click the indicator cap back on.

Step 8: Turn the Water Back On and Test

Open the isolation valves slowly rather than all at once, allowing the system to repressurise gradually. Turn the tap on and off several times to confirm the new component is seated correctly and there is no dripping from the spout, the base or underneath the sink. Run the tap for a minute or two to flush through any air or debris from the new fitting.

What If Limescale Is the Problem?

Not every dripping or stiff tap needs a replacement part. If you live in a hard water area and your tap has become stiff to operate or has developed a minor drip, limescale may be the cause rather than a worn component.

Essex sits in a moderately hard water area, which means limescale accumulation inside taps is genuinely common. If soaking does not fully resolve the problem, a new cartridge is the next logical step, but it is always worth trying the vinegar soak first as it costs very little and occasionally saves the expense of a replacement part entirely.

Watch Our Video: Fixing a Faulty Tap

See the repair process in action. In the video below, our engineer demonstrates how to diagnose and fix a dripping tap step by step, showing exactly what to expect at each stage of the process.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

A few small errors account for the majority of failed DIY tap repairs. Being aware of these before you start will save you time and frustration.

• Overtightening the cartridge or shroud is the single most common mistake. Excessive force can crack ceramic discs or strip threads, turning a simple repair into a more expensive replacement job.
• Buying the wrong replacement part accounts for a significant number of repeat callouts. Always take the old cartridge with you rather than trying to describe or photograph it.
• Forgetting to block the plughole is an easy oversight. Small screws and O-rings can disappear down an open drain in seconds.
• Not confirming the water is off before disassembly is a surprisingly common error. Always open the tap briefly after turning off the isolation valves to confirm no water flows before you start taking anything apart.